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去年7月時老公用他的年假安排了一趟旅行
也是我們的「Babymoon-兩人世界最後的旅行」
因為考慮到我的肚子已經很大
所以選了一個離我們近的小鎮Karesborough落腳
途中在著名的花園城市Harrogate用餐
以下按我們旅遊時序介紹一下這兩個旅遊勝地
/// Harrogate的Jamie Oliver餐廳
我們落腳地Knaresborough隸屬於Harrogate管轄
兩地非常相近,且都是著名的觀光城鎮
我們決定途中在以溫泉與花園著稱的Harrogate用餐
Image by Kelly Chang, street view of Harrogate
當時正值暑假,即使我們於平日下午抵達
市區的車流量還是驚人,欲開車前往的朋友要有心理準備
儘管小塞了一會兒,一進入Harrogate就讓人心曠神怡
整個小鎮有種說不出的精巧美
城鎮非常整齊、到處都是有歷史感的建築物
除了城市本身的格局與建築外
可愛的小店、咖啡館與餐廳也是讓Harrogate迷人的原因之一
我們選擇了主要道路上Jamie Oliver餐廳用餐
帥哥主廚Jamie Oliver不只會煮菜,還非常有生意頭腦(才能養得起五個孩子阿!)
旗下的餐廳品牌就有五個
而分店最廣的就是我們吃的Jamie’s Italian(台灣也要開分店囉!)
Harrogate的Jamie’s Italian店內氛圍很舒服
內裝採高挑設計,且一進門就可看見座位區後的開放式廚房
Image by Kelly Chang, Jamie's Italian in Harrogate
Image by Kelly Chang, entrance of Jamie's Italian in Harrogate, selling Jamie's own products
本來我倆想點披薩合吃,但非午餐時間沒有供應披薩
最後我們合點了炸橄欖(Fried Stuffed Olives)當作前菜
我的主菜是黑板菜(並無列在菜單上)香辣番茄醬汁通心義大利麵(Penne Arrabbiata)
老公點的是香烤雞排佐煙花女醬(Grilled Chicken Puttanesca)
起初我很質疑Jamie Oliver餐廳的美味程度
因為Jamie Oliver 在英國著名的不只是帥哥主廚形象
人們提到他,都會知道其致力提倡餐營養均衡的校園午餐與力抗兒童肥胖
而且他也是有機食品提倡者
所以讓我小小擔心他的食物是不是太健康導向而忽略美味(出來吃我就是要罪惡嘛)
結果我真是多慮了
我們點的每一道都驚為天人地好吃阿!
那炸橄欖酥脆可口,讓我們脾胃大開
我點的義大利麵雖是道簡易的義大利家常菜,但當日現做的麵食(開放式廚房可看到製麵機)與調味地剛剛好的醬料,就是好吃沒別的!
老公對他的煙花女雞排也讚不絕口,這道菜因為使用醃漬酸豆與鯷魚,原料本身就鹹,調味不好往往鹹到難以入口,當日調味恰到好處,且鮮味有出來!
重點來了,最後帳單共28.49英鎊(有含服務費與兩杯飲料),英國物價來說絕對是可接受範圍 ^^
Image by Kelly Chang, Fried Stuffed Olives of Jamie's Italian
Image by Kelly Chang, Penne Arrabbiata of Jamie's Italian
Image by Kelly Chang, Chicken Puttanesca of Jamie's Italian
/// Harrogate市區
餐後我們小小逛了Harrogate
前面提到整個小鎮非常精美整潔,可愛小店林立
氛圍絕不是台北東區或首爾明洞匆忙快速的步調
較像是首爾三清洞或東京自由之丘,閒靜而美,可以慢慢賞味
Image by Kelly Chang, street view of Harrogate
/// 入住Knaresborough
接著我們前往住宿地Knaresborough,離Harrogate約20分鐘車程
當晚我們落腳一家叫Kirkgate House的B&B(£69一晚,含早餐)
民宿內部整潔溫馨,女主人親切,早餐豐盛好吃(在英國民宿大多都會提供英式早餐,看似簡單的食材,也不是每家都能做好!其中煎蛋及培根功力是早餐好吃的關鍵,太陽蛋要一面酥脆,一面蛋黃半熟;培根要煎到微脆而不焦;當然主人選的肉品品質也超重要)!
Image by Kelly Chang, our room at Kirkgate House
/// Knaresborough河畔散步
Knaresborough過去以市集與溫泉著稱,整個城鎮步行皆可到達~
當時正值夏天,天黑得晚,我們Check in後就沿著Knaresborough的河畔散步(River Nidd Waterside Walk);如果說Harrogate是三清洞,Knaresborough就像首爾北村一樣,有很多很美的老房子,遊客不用擔心沒有事前做功課,這裡的古蹟(即使是一般住家)都有解說牌
看著英式鐵路橋(如哈利波特電影中的架高鐵路橋)與河中樹蔭倒影,一路好愜意,當然遊客也可選擇乘船遊Knaresborough,在夏天是很不錯的選擇。
Image by Kelly Chang, Railway Bridge and reflections of trees along River Nidd, Knaresborough
/// Knaresborough 城堡
隔天,吃完民宿豐盛早餐後,我們前往當地最有名的景點─Knaresborough Castle
城堡一年只有固定期間開放,出發前要事先查詢
城堡園區還包括花園與都鐸時代法院
都鐸法院現已成為一博物館(須購票,票可參觀博物館與城堡內部),主要展出中古世紀社會樣貌
展覽入口右邊便為法庭(有法官席與被告席),法庭設備都還保存相當完好,站在旁邊能感受當初緊張的法庭氣氛
城堡大部分都已毀損,只剩下幾面殘骸,內部有個螺旋梯可以到二樓,走在狹窄的螺旋梯(以前的城堡設計多為以易守難攻為考量,所以樓梯很狹小,而且走上去的人很難用右手揮劍)似乎有回到中古世紀的錯覺
現場也有專人解說最初城堡的設計與空間使用,非常值得一看
參觀完都鐸法庭與城堡後,可以到城堡外的花園逛逛,坐在長凳上,享受Knaresborough令人窒息的美景(以下第二張圖便是從長凳上看出去的風景,真的可以看一整天也不膩)
Image by Kelly Chang, Knaresborough Castle
Image by Kelly Chang, view of River Nidd from Knaresborough Castle
在我們離開的路上,看到好多櫥窗藝術,其實這些都不是真的窗戶,而是「畫在牆上的窗戶」
這些藝術是不是讓平凡的街景更有個性也更可愛了呢?
另外,2014的環法自行車賽經過Knaresborough,當地居民為此無比驕傲
所以走在路上都可看到窗戶貼滿環法logo貼紙或黃色自行車!為小鎮多了一種樣貌~
最後,大家是否看到下圖酒吧名稱為「Blind Jack」,Blind Jack是Knaresborough最出名的歷史人物,他是英國工業革命時第一個專業造路者,六歲即盲的背景為他的人生更添傳奇色彩,大家可以來Knaresborough市集看看他的雕像喔(沒照到照片,前面提到的都鐸法院中也有展出他傳奇人生)~
我們的Babymoon就這樣畫上終點了!而我們也充電滿滿準備迎接小生命囉!如果你也想來一趟閒靜放鬆的小旅行,英格蘭北方這兩座小鎮一定不會讓你失望!
Image by Kelly Chang, town windows in Knaresborough
Last July my hubby arrange our “babymoon-last 2 people trip before having the first child” to Harrogate and Knaresborough.
/// Jamie’s Italian in Harrogate
Harrogate and Knaresborough are both famous tourist destinations, and they are really close to each other.
Traffic was a bit bad when we first got in Harrogate, but we felt quite relaxed and astonished once we got to the beautiful town center.
We stopped in Harrogate for lunch on the way to Knaresborough, and we chose Jamie’s Italian on the main road.
Image by Kelly Chang, Jamie's Italian in Harrogate
Among 5 brands under Jamie Oliver, Jamie’s Italian was the most widespread. This brand has branches around the world; people in Asia can try them in Bali, Hong Kong, India, and Singapore.
High ceiling, wood furniture and open kitchen made the Harrogate branch a very pleasant place to eat.
Originally, we wanted to order pizza to share. However, they did not serve it because we just missed lunch time.
Finally we ordered Fried Stuffed Olives, Penne Arrabiata, Grilled Chicken Puttanesca.
We were both very impressed by stuffed olives; it was just very crispy and well-seasoned.
I also love my Arrabiata, the freshly made penne was just so nice (you can see the pasta machine in their kitchen)!
Hubby’s chicken was very juicy and enjoyable; normally puttanesca is a dish very easy to over-season, but the puttanesca that day was just perfect.
The bill was 28.49 (service fee and drinks were included). For the food and service we got, we thought the price was quite reasonable.
Image by Kelly Chang, seats at Jamie's Italian
Image by Kelly Chang, open kitchen in Jamie's Italian
/// Town Center of Harrogate
After meal we went for a stroll in the town center.
There are a lot of boutiques and delicate cafés to occupy you for a while.
All the roads are very clean and beautiful; it was just very relaxing to walk on streets.
If you have ever been to Seoul’s Samcheong-Dong or Tokyo’s Jiyugaoka, the atmosphere of Harrogate is really similar with these two places.
/// B&B in Knaresborough
After Harrogate, we drove 20 minutes to Knaresborough, the town we were going to stay that night. Knaresborough is a beautiful and historic small town; all the tourist spots can be reached on foot.
The B&B we choose was Kirkgate House (£69 per night, breakfast included).
We would recommend this B&B to people because the whole experience was really nice. We got a clean room, a good view from our bed, and delicious breakfast. Most of all, the hostess was really hospitable.
Image by Kelly Chang, dinning room in Kirkgate House
/// River Nidd Waterside Walk
We decided to have a stroll along River Nidd Waterside Walk around 5pm (in UK summer, sunset is around 9pm, so people can enjoy day time till really late).
Along the river, there were a lot of nice cottages and river views, and it was a blessing to see the reflections of trees in the water, just like paintings! Also, there are lots of plaques along this Walk for tourists to understand this place. One of the plagues was about Blind Jack(the first professional road builder to emerge during the Industrial Revolution), and we were very surprised to know that Blind Jack was from Knaresborough.
During day time, it the weather is nice, you can also take boats to go around Knaresborough.
We would say the Waterside Walk is a must in Knaresborough.
Image by Kelly Chang, street view by River Nidd
/// Knaresborough Castle
The next day after wonderful breakfast at B&B, we walked to Knaresborough Castle (only 5 minute walk from our B&B). The Castle is not open all the time, so tourists would better check their website before setting off.
Knaresborough Castle contains the Castle, Courthouse Museum and Castle Grounds.
Tourists can go to the Courthouse first to have a look of actual life of kids and adults in a medieval castle at the exhibition room.
This part was very interesting because life in a medieval castle was not so romantic as we thought.
In addition, right at the entrance of exhibition room, there is a Tudor courtroom; tourists can get a feeling of what it was like to be tried in the dock in Tudor England.
The Castle itself is much ruined now, and only two walled baileys remained one behind the other. However, the stones, narrow spiral stairs and darkness still brought us back to the medieval age, and we could really picture life in the past here.
After the courthouse and castle, having a stroll in the grounds was a perfect choice because the view of River Nidd from the Castle was just breathtakingly beautiful.
Image by Kelly Chang, benches next to Knaresborough Castle
/// Knaresborough Windows
On the way back, we saw lots of “painted windows”, well, they are actually not windows, and they are paintings faked to be windows.
Image by Kelly Chang, town window of Knaresborough
Also, on the streets, the logo of Tour de France was everywhere because Knaresborough was on the route of Tour de France in 2014.
These two features made Knaresborough more interesting and fascinating.
Our babymoon passed so fast; we felt we have not explored enough and we had to leave.
If you are looking for a classic English town trip, Harrogate and Knaresborough will definitely be the places you want to visit again and again.